Sneak peak of Dashur, Saqqarra

I'm flat exhausted, after a day's adventure. Entered pyramids and tombs, ate nothing, and had one bottle of water. Need sleep. More later.

Cairo: Thanks For All the Allergies

Well, I wondered what it was. I went to the doctor this morning and he says I'm having one big jolly respiratory allergy reaction thing. That explains why it feels like there is a pipe-cleaner in my lungs and I have the energy of a lawn ornament.

The funny thing is, I'm not really allergic to anything. Beyond my mythological reaction to penicillin, that strange thing with cod liver oil and a horrible feeling I get in my nose when I'm around cats.

The point: Cairo is to blame.

Cairo, the city that likes to pretend smog is fog, or haze. Cairo, where anything with an engine is the unfiltered cigarette of the road. Cairo, the city where Ahmed Public dives for the protection of an awning during a freak rainstorm not because he wants to stay dry, but because he knows the sky's caustic raindrops will destroy his favorite jalabeya.

Ahmed, I feel your pain.

I'd empathize more, but I have to take some drugs, skip class and moodily drift off to sleep on the wings of a perfect Perlman/Mendelsohn mind meld.

Alexandria . . . Sleepily

The old coastal city of Alexandria was my home this weekend. I say home, because I did what most Alexandrians probably do on the weekend - sleep and eat. Yes, there are some amazing museums. Yes there is a fort. Yes, there is the rebirth of the ancient world-renowned Alexandria Library. But I spent most of my time flat on my back, dreaming about some guy with money in his shoes.



It may have something to do with me developing a sickness unto death. But I'd prefer to think its the atmosphere of Alex, the WASP of the Mediterranean - lazy, tidy, fun-loving and pretentious.

One of the first things Laura (my Alex traveling companion) noticed when we got to Alex was the big no-honking sign right outside the east train station. What suprised me is that it actually seemed to mean something: The corniche, 10 lanes of traffic that divide the city from the sea, is actually a pretty quiet place. Compared to Cairo, at least, where one cabby has all the tools he needs to wake the dead.



I got away with a lot on this trip. I ate more Egyptian food than usual, with breakfast at 11am and suppper at 11pm. Mooched off of the school trip (which I wasn't on) for free meals, one night's room and transportation to a mall.



Didn't do: Swimming. Most of Alex's tourist sites - Fort Qaitbey, Royal Jewellery Museum, Graeco-Roman Museum, catacombs. Fish shopping, coffee shop visiting.

Did do: Sleeping. Alexandria Library, Santa Lucia - saffron rice and sea bass, fuul, slept on a balcony overlooking the Med, bug bites - due partly to sleeping on a balcony overlooking the Med.

As Google Defines Me

Thanks siblings! Here's a fun thing, taken from their weblogs. Thanks to Janna for the text.

Directions: Type "(your name) is" , (with the quotes) into a Google search, cut-and-paste the first 10 responses that work. Just pull the answers right out of the excerpt google shows you, don't click the link and search around. The only rule is that each one has to start with "(your name) is"

I only put the clean ones here. It took three Google pages.

1. I am guessing on the size of the Blogging Market.
2. I am a girl.
3. I am particularly interested in applying his more than forty years of experience in analyzing, organizing and writing about the historical literature of medicine, science and technology in the planning, building, and writing of innovative, interactive websites for libraries, archives and museums.
4. I am most often the answer man.
5. I am very active in the area of RDF syntax and parsing.
6. I am one of the youngest Maine Native American basketmakers.
7. I am the eldest of four children.
8. I am getting married.
9. I am still involved with The Family.
10. I am capable and effective.

A Glimpse of Alexandria

More to come...

Democracy v. Terror, Round 3

To a recent comment from an earlier Round:

Yes, I'm aware of our inability to "control" Iran (Iran President Ahmadinejad, left), clearly a religious government. But Iran, even if you factor out decades-long engagement ineptitude towards them, actually proves my point.

Religious governments should be easier to control because they should be easier to understand. The problem is that we have a foreign policy blindspot where religion intersects with government. That's not to say religious governments are inherently easier to control. But they should be easier to manipulate with a concerted effort to understand the religious underpinnings.

Unfortunately, I believe that seldom happens. And when it does, its only to the degree it effects immediate state policy. When was the last time you heard of a Islam doctrinal expert in the US intelligence community -- someone who makes long-term forecasts about the evolution of a religion critical to the Middle East and many other places in the world?

Religious Right effect on US foreign policy toward the Israeli/Palestinian issue

Don't yawn -- that's actually the subject I'm delving into for my POLS 405 class here at AUC. Let me lay it out below, from my paper description:

"The strong relationship between the USA and Israel has many facets. But I believe the case can be made that US support for Israel is partially based on the belief that an Israeli state has a key role in Biblical prophecy, and that belief runs deeply through American’s cultural psyche. That culture-wide belief is maintained, and probably accelerated, by strong – sometimes uninformed – grassroots support from US Christian evangelical fundamentalists. That base of support, and the resultant culture-wide background beliefs, is channeled by the American Jewish lobby into a compelling influence on American foreign policy – especially regarding Israel’s relationship with the Palestinians. More often than not, American politicians find themselves working with the American Jewish lobby based often on the religious beliefs of the politicians and their constituencies."

Wordy, maybe, but the topic nonetheless. The basis for this is my own history and experience with Christianity and fundamentalism. What's fascinating for me is the fact that a worldview that I had always taken for granted comes as somewhat of a shock to the rest of the world.

Suprisingly (to me at least) there isn't a lot of work on this topic. So I'll be doing a lot of research. I'm starting with the basis of the belief, specifically Christian Millenarianism -- post- and pre-dispensationalist. I'll look at the rise of Christian evangelical fundamentalism and how the movement's views on morals and the "end times" compels its believers into political action.

My roommates and I got into a stiff argument about this topic, with Sinan minimalizing religion as a force in foreign policy of any state. I think he's wrong. Moreover, I think it's far more persuasive and pervasive than a lot of people care to admit.

It's not bad the religion affects a state's behavior towards other states. But it needs to be seen for what it is and dealt with as an ever-evolving facet of political science.

End of sermon.

Adjusting - Tip #1

1. Make things your very own.

That doesn't mean climb into a hole. Get out, just a bit, and find things that you make comfortable by claiming them. It doesn't have to be anything big. It could be a guy on the street corner you see every day. Make him your guy, that you see everyday. Find a place where you can get something to drink - coffee, or a fruit juice. Make it your place, in your mind.

Pick something else as yours, when you feel like it. Before you know it, you'll be home.

Diving In Dahab (and Sharm, and El Gouna, and Alexandria...)

Just a quick update on scuba diving here in Egypt. The following is what I've learned or heard about. I don't know anything for sure. Hmm, sounds about right.

Dahab - Great diving, for a good price. It's on the eastern coast of the Sinai, North of Sharm. Supposedly spectacular, and the place everyone goes that's in the know. Also cheaper than Sharm and a LOT cheaper than El Gouna. What everyone says: "Dude, it's awesome."

Sharm - The usual centerpoint for Red Sea diving. Recent victim of a one-time-deal terrorist attack. Warnings from the US Government notwithstanding, still a place the premiere Red Sea resort and diving destination. But everyone knows about it, so there are prices to match.

El Gouna - I was just there a few weeks ago. OK to good diving, but prohibitively expensive. It has the advantage of not being on any terror worry lists. Expensive. Muy expensive.

Alexandria - Working underwater archaelogical sites here. Under part of one of the harbor is a submerged piece of ancient Alexandria. Some spectacular statues were taken out of the water a few years ago. No idea on prices or dive spots.

To do or do not. Maybe I'll just try

The school sponsors trips to different places. That's good.
They are usually interesting places, at a good price. That's good.

But it's frustrating to be a sheep in the herd. It's nice to not have to worry about all the structural things - where to sleep, where to eat. But if I have be nervously checked off another list by one more tired, frustrated ISSO staffer...

So, the bottom line is that I'm considering a independent trip to Alexandria this weekend. Not sure how many are going yet. The school is sponsoring a simultaneous trip, and some have defected to that. There may yet be a few adventurous souls...

Alice in Pharaohland

I went to the red-brick colored Egyptian Museum on Friday. I walked in the front gate(s) and was immediately shocked by how many tourists there were. I know I'm a foreigner. But I'm used to seeing Egyptians, not other foreigners. Sometimes even running into another AUC student on the street gives me a bit of a start.

Tourists - everywhere - in all states of undress. I've gotten so adjusted to the usual apparel here that I was simply struck dumb by what some of these people had on - or didn't, actually. One broad shouldered and broad accented Australian man kept taking his shirt off. He could do that, because he kept putting it back on. I didn't understand why. And a few slinky Eastern European female types were gallivanting around in what even my Western mind would call prostitute duds.

I felt a bit native, in a way. I knew, for example, that they were charging about three times as much as water usually cost. Oh, smug me.

Inside, the most common smell wasn't granite or age: it was the tang of human sweat. The museum isn't air-conditioned, so the monumentally calm statues gaze down on suffering, sweating peons of the present. The 100 degree (f) temperature outside didn't help, either.

The range and depth of antiquities in the place is beyond outstanding. There are so many spectacular pieces that they don't event attempt to group them by priority - just time period. There were quite a few pieces taking part in traveling exhibits, but it hardly mattered. I can imagine being the museum guy with that job:

"Hmm, which one of these five priceless necklaces shall we send out to be slobbered on by the Boston Museum? Well, how about this one?"

Tut and I had a man-to-man. He didn't say much, and I went away feeling a mite small.

Geographically speaking, my language skills are flat

It's called a plateau.

On which I can get somewhere in a cab with a bit of fluency, but there's no way I can maintain a conversation beyond where I'm from, where I got to school, and where I live. And even that is pushing it. I forget simple words, forget new ones I struggle to learn, and wonder if I should be learning Egyptian Arabic instead of Modern Standard.

Democracy v. Terror, round 2

(Macchiavelli. It'll make sense below)

In an earlier post I mentioned that religious governments may be easier to control. Some commenters had some interesting questions based on that statement, and the post in general.

First, I'm not assuming that a more religious government would provide a high quality of life, at least as we understand it. However, it would be what the people want, and therefore a positive move from that perspective.

Some friends of mine got into an interesting discussion in their political economy class, where the teacher said the US (specifically under Pres. Ike) supported military dictators for the sake of modernization. That simply doesn't make sense. The US, at least as I understand it, has always been about supporting their own goals in this region, and modernization falls far down the list under stability for the oil supply's sake, and a united front against (past) concerns of Soviet "expansion."

The expansion concern is done like dinner. But when I talk about what the US should support, I'm hardly ever saying what I say because I want to help the people in the region. I know that sounds draconian, but actually it's more Machiavellian (expediency, although not necessarily deceit). If the US considers democracy and stability key parts of its foreign policy in the Middle East, than maybe it's time to support potential Islamist governments, to some degree. Not for the good of the people, but for the the sake of US policy priorities and possible a better relationship with said countries.

When I said religious governments may be easier to control, I meant since they're working off almost a prepared script, it should be relatively easy to know what they're going to do. The problem is that we may not like what they want to do, so that's where control comes in. and control is based on a proper understanding of the situation.

Just perused a book here - Religion, The Missing Dimension of Statescraft. It's overblown and pretentious, but it says that diplomats in general (and US diplomats in particular) need to factor in religious issues and angles when dealing with foreign policy to a country where religious plays a center role.

I'll take that one step further - the US should not only factor religion in its diplomatic efforts, it should actively recruit and pursue elements of a religion - ones that may be friendly to the US and its interests. Those contacts would be invaluable if a democratically-elected religious government takes power. And, even if it doesn't.

Verdi's grand opera "Aida," with a side of sick

I attended the final show this season of Verdi's masterpiece, Aida. The Cairo Opera House, which I understand was donated by the Japanese not too many years ago, is a spectacular exclamation point on the south end of Zamalek Island. The south of the island is more properly know as Gezirah, it's old colonial name. It's still the name of the extensive park and sporting club there - still featuring a polo ground and magnificent gardens.

The set was uber-golden spectacular, the chorus extensive. But I simply couldn't get over how old Aida was. I mean, come on - she supposed to be this Nubian slave beauty with whom the soldierly Ramdas falls madly in love, to the disgust of the Pharaoh's daughter. She has her eye on him, but Aida's supposedly too much for his gallant heart, and he more or less rejects the Pharoah's daughter for -- that??!

I know I should be nice, but they were both portrayed poorly; Ramdas too weak, and Aida too dumpy. Which meant everytime he professed his love I wanted to throw rotten tomatoes instead of weep tears. The Pharaoh's daughter and the High Priest stole the show and, based on the cheering at the end, I wasn't the only one that thought so.

I kept up with the plot as best as I could, aided solely by the program. For the Arabic speakers in the audience (of which I'm not one yet) there was a projection screen with Arabic subtitles. Handy for them, frustrating for me. I felt better when I noticed there seemed to be an inordinate amount of Japanese in the audience. Now, maybe they could read Arabic - or knew Italian - I don't know. Maybe they just came to check on their investment. But at least I wasn't the only non-Egyptian in the audience. And there were tons of AUC students.

My general enjoyment wasn't helped by the fact that I was ill, and by act III I thought I was going to keel over since the hammers located right behind my eyes refused to stop their infernal pounding.

But other than that, it was a great time.

Democracy v. Terror, round 1

I just finished an interesting piece by F. Gregory Gause II in the Sept./Oct. issue of Foreign Affairs. In it, he says if the US really backs insta-democracies in the Middle East, it's shooting itself in the foot regarding future relations with those countries. Many of would go to some sort of Islamic rule if allowed to truly be democratic, and the foreign policy of those new Islamic countries would be even more antithetical to US interests in the area.

Sounds fair. But his weak evidence -- comparing India (a democracy) to China (authoritarian) verges on bizarre. Taking his point to its logical conclusion, democracy may actually encourage terrorism. Hooray! Let's all become authoritarian to stop terrorism! It works in China, after all . . .

His two real suggestions? First, the US should put more energy into supporting the development of moderate, non-Islamic parties. Second, the US should seriously considering giving up its democracy-at-all-cost position because it's not realistic and may even be potentially dangerous.

Fair enough, but why should the US support moderate, non-Islamic parties if they don't really represent how the people feel? Is the solution to simply go back to supporting "terror-reducing" authoritarian regimes? What's the real goal here?

Simply put, the US can't give up its support for democracy in the Middle East, at least in this administration. Plus, pushing democracy is an excellent policy cover for a whole host of desired changes in the region, not the least of which is a realignment of state types in countries critical to US security. Clearly the days of cooperating with obvious dictators is over. But just like the US needed to keep its thumb on maverick dictators, the US simply can't afford to let democracy run willy-nilly without, for its own sake, without setting the scene for a reliable outcome.

And what if it is Islamic governments? Use them, for crying out loud. It's the same principle, really - understand them better than they do, predict their behavior, and then interfere with policy choices that are bad for US policy and interests. The US has to stop being so scared of theocracies and religious governments.

The problem is the West simply doesn't understand these kinds of governments. I believe religious governments are even easier to understand and control, since their actions are dictated by a framework that has limits and practically a standard platform. Dedicated learning will quickly erase fear born of misunderstanding. That doesn't mean the US has to promote Islamic governments. But doesn't it make sense to give the people what they want, while you manipulate it under their nose?

So - all of this may be the basis for a paper for my "international politics in the Middle East" class. We'll see.

At the Red Sea . . . in a black mood

This morning the sun swallowed whole the sliver of a crescent moon. It was beautiful, natural, probably as thrilling to me as when the first man saw the same sight.

A few hours later, I just wanted to sit in the shower and mope.

I had just arrived at a pre-manufactured slice of Western heaven, El Gouna's Movenpick resort. It's on the Red Sea, but that's about as original as it gets. Between the rhumba music in the Piazza, and "Gangster Paradise" playing in the lobby, I was about ready to bash my Western brains out.

Even the plants (the plants!) need artificial life support from hoses that snake to-and-fro through the sand that serves as sod here. I contemplated locking myself in the room with a book, to read in air-conditioned peace. I missed Cairo, the noise, the smells, the hubbub - the sheer realness of the place.

But El Gouna! No need to speak Arabic here, the staff knows twenty-seven languages! Most of the guest are English or German. One teutonic yet bald tourist held the door open for me and I thanked him in German and felt profoundly Western. And just completely out of place.

I finally dragged my pale body to the beach and into the fabled Red Sea. It was ripple-chip salty - a tang that I wouldn't usually mind, but today felt completely too much to handle. I climbed aboard the platform over the coral reef closest to shore, and watched hand-sized non-poisonous jellyfish shimmer with the current. My quiet space was quickly interrupted by a coterie of jolly AUC students -both male and female of course - enjoying the sun, coral, and each other's bathing suits.

"Oooh, look at the jellyfish!" A girl squealed.
"They're not poisonous," said a tanned dude. "I know, I put one in my mouth."

With that, a diaphanous jellyfish was promptly scooped out of the water, to lay on the platform not far from me. It reflexively squeezed into a tight jellymass, locking away the masses - no way to be disturbed by new things. Safe.

I know that feeling, I thought.

-----------

It took hours, and a sumptous dinner, but I gradually let myself open, like a jellyfish thrown back into the water. New friends helped, as did a nice steaming cup of tea. The swimming was nice, too.

I'm back in Cairo now. Back to the pollution and noise. Back home.